Have you ever gazed at the inky expanse of a clear night sky and witnessed a fleeting streak of light, a "shooting star" gracefully slicing through the darkness? It's a magical moment, a reminder of the vast universe surrounding us. But what exactly are these celestial sparklers, and when's the best time to catch them? Meteors—those breathtaking "shooting stars"—are among the most accessible and awe-inspiring astronomical phenomena. Let's explore what they are, their origins, and why they illuminate the night.

Why Do Some Meteors Glow Different Colors?

As a meteoroid plunges into Earth's atmosphere at incredible speeds, friction with the air molecules generates intense heat. This heat causes the meteoroid to vaporize, and the atoms within it become excited. When these excited atoms return to their normal energy state, they emit light at specific wavelengths, which we perceive as different colors. Think of it like a cosmic fireworks display! The colour depends on two things:

1. Chemical Composition

When a meteoroid burns up, its minerals ionize the air, creating different hues:

Yellow/Orange - Sodium

Yellow: Can also be sodium, but sometimes iron.

Green - Magnesium, Nickel

Blue - Ionized Calcium

Red - Atmospheric Nitrogen & Oxygen

2. Speed & Temperature

Faster meteors (like those from the Perseid shower) burn hotter and often appear white or blue.
Slower meteors (like the Leonids) may glow red or orange.

What Is a Meteor?

A meteor, often called a shooting star or falling star, is the flash of light we see when a small piece of space debris (a meteoroid) burns up as it enters Earth's atmosphere due to friction.

Meteoroid: A tiny rock or dust particle floating in space (usually from comets or asteroids).

Meteor: The bright streak of light produced as the meteoroid vaporizes.
Meteorite: If a meteoroid survives its fiery descent and hits the ground, it earns this name.

Most meteors are caused by particles no larger than a grain of sand, yet they create dazzling displays as they disintegrate at speeds of 30,000 to 160,000 mph!

Earth’s Rotation & Orbit: Imagine Earth as a car driving through rain—the windshield (the side facing forward) catches more raindrops than the rear window.

Before Midnight: You’re on Earth’s "trailing" side, so only fast-moving meteors can catch up.
After Midnight: You’re on the "leading" side, plowing directly into space debris, resulting in more frequent and brighter meteors.

Fireballs & Bolides: When Meteors Put on a Show

While most shooting stars are caused by tiny dust grains, a more spectacular event occurs when a larger meteoroid, typically pebble-sized or bigger, slams into our atmosphere. The increased mass and speed generate significantly more energy, resulting in an ultra-bright fireball.Occasionally, a larger meteoroid (pebble-sized or bigger) enters the atmosphere, creating an ultra-bright fireball.

Fireball: A meteor brighter than Venus (can even cast shadows!).
Bolide: A fireball that explodes (sometimes with a sonic boom).

Busting the Myth: Shooting Stars Aren't Dying Stars

Shooting stars have nothing to do with actual stars. Stars are enormous, light-years away. What we see is a tiny particle, often no bigger than a grain of dust (called a meteoroid), burning up in our atmosphere due to friction.

Stars (like our Sun) are massive, distant balls of plasma.
Meteors are tiny space rocks burning up in our atmosphere—some as small as a grain of dust!

So, the next time you make a wish upon a shooting star, remember that you're wishing on a tiny speck of cosmic dust making its dramatic, albeit brief, entrance into our world.

Meteorites: When Space Rocks Reach Earth

Few meteoroids survive their plunge to Earth, but those that do become meteorites. There are three main types:

Stony (Chondrites) – Most common, made of silicate minerals.
Iron – Dense, metallic, often from asteroid cores.
Stony-Iron – A rare mix of both.

10 of the most famous meteorites in history, known for scientific importance, size, or dramatic falls:

Murchison Meteorite (Life’s Building Blocks)

Location: Victoria, Australia
Weight: ~100 kg
Fall: 1969
Type: CM2 Carbonaceous Chondrite
Key Discovery: Contains 70+ amino acids (some not found on Earth).

Sikhote-Alin Meteorite (Largest Iron Meteor Shower)

Location: Siberia, Russia
Weight: ~23 tons (scattered fragments)
Fall: Feb 12, 1947
Type: Iron (IIAB)
Impact: Created 122 craters (largest is 26m wide).

Canyon Diablo (Meteor Crater’s Origin)

Location: Arizona, USA
Weight: ~30 tons (fragments)
Impact: ~50,000 years ago
Type: Iron (IAB)
Legacy: Formed Barringer Crater (1.2 km wide).

Fukang Meteorite (Most Beautiful Pallasite)

Location: Xinjiang, China
Weight: ~1,003 kg
Found: 2000
Type: Pallasite (olivine crystals in iron-nickel)
Appearance: Looks like stained glass when sliced.

Nakhla Meteorite (The "Mars Meteorite")

Location: Egypt
Weight: ~10 kg
Fall: 1911 (hit a dog—allegedly!)
Type: Martian (Shergottite)
Importance: Proved Mars has water (contains hydrated minerals).

Hoba Meteorite (Largest Intact Meteorite)

Location: Namibia, Africa
Weight: ~60 tons (largest single meteorite on Earth)
Discovered: 1920
Type: Iron (84% Fe, 16% Ni)
Impact: Never moved—still in its original impact site!

Allende Meteorite (Most Studied Carbonaceous Chondrite)

Location: Chihuahua, Mexico
Weight: ~2 tons (fell as thousands of fragments)
Fall: 1969 (just before Apollo moon missions)
Type: CV3 Carbonaceous Chondrite
Importance: Contains pre-solar grains (older than the Sun!)

Chelyabinsk Meteorite (Most Dramatic Modern Impact)

Location: Chelyabinsk, Russia
Weight: ~1,400 kg (main fragment)
Fall: Feb 15, 2013 (exploded mid-air, injuring 1,500+)
Blast Force: ~30x Hiroshima nuke (non-nuclear)
Type: Ordinary Chondrite (LL5)
Famous For: Viral dashcam videos of the explosion.

Tunguska Event (Largest Meteor Airburst in History)

Location: Siberia, Russia
Estimated Size: ~50–100m wide (never found)
Event: June 30, 1908 (flattened 2,000 km² of forest)
Energy: ~10–15 megatons of TNT
Effect: Knocked people off feet 60 km away

Meteor Showers: Nature’s Fireworks Visible from Fuerteventura

1. Quadrantids

When: Late December – Early January (Peak: Jan 3–4)
Best Time: Pre-dawn hours
Rate: 60–120 meteors/hour (but brief peak)
Parent Body: Asteroid 2003 EH1
Notes: Fast, bright meteors; often has fireballs.

2. Lyrids

When: Mid-April (Peak: Apr 21–22)
Best Time: After midnight
Rate: 10–20 meteors/hour (sometimes outbursts)
Parent Body: Comet Thatcher (C/1861 G1)
Notes: Known for occasional bright fireballs.

3. Perseids (Best for Summer Viewing!)

When: Mid-July – Late August (Peak: Aug 12–13)
Best Time: Late night to dawn
Rate: 50–100 meteors/hour
Parent Body: Comet Swift-Tuttle
Notes: Bright, fast meteors; great for warm summer nights.

4. Orionids

When: October (Peak: Oct 20–21)
Best Time: After midnight
Rate: 10–20 meteors/hour
Parent Body: Halley’s Comet
Notes: Fast meteors, often leaves persistent trains.

5. Leonids

When: Mid-November (Peak: Nov 17–18)
Best Time: Late night to dawn
Rate: 10–15 meteors/hour (but can have storms every ~33 years)
Parent Body: Comet Tempel-Tuttle
Notes: Famous for historic meteor storms (next big one ~2033).

6. Geminids (Best of the Year!)

When: Early–Mid December (Peak: Dec 13–14)
Best Time: After 10 PM
Rate: 100–150 meteors/hour
Parent Body: Asteroid 3200 Phaethon
Notes: Bright, slow meteors; one of the most reliable showers.

Meteor showers are one of nature’s most magical displays—reminding us that the universe is alive with wonder, even in our own cosmic backyard. Whether you’re a seasoned stargazer or a first-time observer, there’s nothing quite like the thrill of spotting a shooting star streak across the night sky.

I had a great email conversation with photography enthusiast Andy Bailey the other week that i had to share his questions with our resident photographer Carly Higgins and here were our answers:

MARISA AND ANDY

I sell a lot of full spectrum cameras to astrophotographers but I have never been able to use one here in the uk due to light pollution.

1) would I need to use a full spectrum camera or would a unmodified one be ok?

2) where is the closest point to corralejo where I could capture the Milky Way. Could I achieve this in a single image or would I need to stack several shots?

3) I understand that at around 28mm I could use a maximum exposure of around 30 seconds. Does that sound right?

Could you advise what settings you would use?

I have various compact, bridge and dslr camera to choose from but would like to carry something practical and as cheap as possible.

Hi Andy

You don't have to use a full spectrum camera. Most of our photos are taken with dslr's. As a collective we own full frame Canon body's and 3/4sensor bodies. Our previous photographer and the founder are Nikon lovers. As you can see from our website: www.starsbynight.es and Instagram account: instagram.com/starsbynightfv/ you can still produce amazing photos with basic equipment.

We are very lucky in Fuerteventura that you don't have to go too far out to see the milky way or to see stars at night. We do observations just 5mins away from the RIU hotel near the dunes which is about 10min drive from the centre of Corralejo. You won't really see the Milky way in April. From July onwards we have a good view but September/October are the best months to see it with with the naked eye. Yes, you can take a photo of this in a single image.

As for your 28mm lens... well that depends if its a full frame, APSC or Micro4/3 camera, what fstop of your lens ( this will change the light qualities depending on what sensor size you have)? What iso? as a general rule and depending on what you are shooting - be it milky way or stars in general, or light/star trails you would be looking at anything from minimum of 20sec-30secs for a night photo ( depending on what you are photographing).

If you are specifically looking at taking night time photos i would recommend bringing a dslr with the widest and brightest lens you have. If this is not what you have then a good start would be something with a lens that is f4 and/or brighter (f2.8, f2, f1.8, f1.2 - are nice to play with). Yet you can still take a good quality photo with even a standard 18-55 kit lens if its only milky way that you want to shoot.

CARLY AND ANDY

"Have you ever tried using a Ricoh theta S fir astrophography"

No I have never tried 360 degree photography

"The Milky Way is the object that I wanted to try and capture. I have several apps on my phone to help track it. I guess planets and nebulas would potential need longer exposures and equatorial mount. "

You can capture images of the planets (looking like stars) using only a DSLR and actually as some are very bright you don't need a long exposure, but If you are looking to take more deep space images yes you would need a very long exposure so an equatorial mount or tracker of some kind would be essential.

"This is the style of photo I'd like to achieve. Astroscape! Is the following a series of images (foreground / background) or still just the one?"( see above picture for reference)

This is all one image in camera, where possible I prefer to do this and reduce processing time

"If it's easy to explain how would you achieve the above image? "

This image is just a single exposure of 15s at f/2.8 and ISO 2000 and would be very easy for even a beginner to take, its the kind of image we will learn to take on workshops. It was a beautiful clear night and the milky way was clearly visible to the naked eye. There is of course a little post processing in Photoshop

"Finally one last question, assuming there was a clear sky with no foreground subject like the windmill, how would you advise achieving the image of the Milky Way like it is in the image above (assuming I was using an APS C with kit lens)"

You would need to use your widest angle lens to get as much of the sky in as possible, if you have a kit lens I am guessing something like 18-55mm which on a crop sensor is equivalent to 27mm on full frame - not massive wide but definitely workable. You also want to use the lowest aperture possible f/2.8 or below if you have it. Using the 500 hundred rule (something else we teach on the workshop) you can workout how long an exposure (shutter speed) you can have without starting to get star trails. For 27mm I would recommend no more than 18 seconds. You will then need to adjust your ISO to get a properly exposed image balancing it against the other 2 elements of the exposure triangle Aperture and Shutter Speed. It would be really great to have you attend a workshop as I can demonstrate exactly how to capture and image like this and work with you to get exactly what you want.

To note: content has been edited slightly to remove places and dates.

who is Andy Bailey: INFRAREADYUK & BESTGHOSTHUNTING

The Magic of Meteors: Shooting Stars, Fireballs, and Cosmic Debris